TOPICS MY BLOG e-mail me | COSTA RICA DIARY (February, 2006) February 16-19 Go to: Arrival instructions Feb 3-5 Feb 6-8 Feb 9-10 Feb 11-12 Feb 13 Feb 14-15 Feb 16-19 Back to: Costa Rica diary introduction Travel page |
Feb 16, Thursday After saying our goodbyes to Luna Lodge and Osa, we will depart in the morning for the long ride back to San Jose. (If you would prefer to fly back to San Jose, flights are available at about $100 p.p.) The rest of us will enjoy the spectacular scenery, perhaps stopping along the way for an impromptu adventure. Overnight in Dominical, Rio Mar or similar Slept through the night. Awake at 6 a.m., maybe doze a little more. Breakfast is a pancake, thick, mediocre. I lie in a hammock and start recording many thoughts on my tiny tape recorder. I finish Coates’ book about 9:15—very provocative. Maxine and I discuss future trips in light of this experience. Through lunch we all debate how to change our travel plans. I am clear about our options, but the others seem confused, and I’m irritated that they don’t seem able (willing?) to heed me. After everything is decided I feel edgy; maybe I have some cabin fever. Lunch is another salad bar with decent quiche. About 2:30 we go to a lagoon for kayaking. I tell the driver who takes us to the lagoon that I cannot get the seat belt to work for me, and he says, “You don’t need it.” We park on the side of the road and walk down a steep decline to the lagoon—not a hard walk. The kayaks are dumpy looking and dirty inside, and our guide, Oscar, splashes them out. The lagoon is shallow and has some waves. We have heard that there are crocodiles here though we do not see any. When is ask what would happen if we capsize, Oscar says something to the effect that the crocodiles would come for us, but I can’t be sure he’s serious. He says we will have an hour and a half trip. The first part seems easy, and I think, “Aha, still water is much easier kayaking than the sea.” For awhile, maybe 40 minutes, I drift or paddle slowly and enjoy the leisure and looking around. I see a couple of macaws. I find I don’t mind not having the camera but actually enjoy looking at the scenery without its mediation. Oscar rows ahead of us and we cannot hear him when he speaks. I feel tired and call to Maxine that I'm going back but she and Oscar should continue. The reverse trip is excruciating. Later I think there is a current, and I am told that I am fighting the winds. It becomes painful to move. With much effort I reach and pass a fallen tree that I think is near our starting point. It isn't. At some point I shove the paddle straight down, into the bottom of the lagoon, thinking I can pole my way. But the bottom is a silty and traps the oar for a moment. I almost capsize. I can’t row anymore, and in defeat or to wait while I gain strength, I lean forward and let my head droop. Oscar sees I’m in trouble, rows to me. I see I have drifted back to where I began struggling several minutes ago. He has a knife similar to a bowie knife, with a leather cord a few feet long, and he ties one end to the front of my kayak. (He says that he would normally have a rope with him that would work much better.) He slowly rows us forward. I keep trying to paddle, then resting in exhaustion; I doubt I’m any help. Back at the lodge I shower and feel better but a bit inadequate “I’m not ashamed,” I claim to Maxine. Using my headlamp in the dusky light, wanting not to be sociable, I read at the dining table before dinner, as usual. Dry chicken again. I listen to annoying interchanges about the hotel arrangement in San Jose. I find Oscar and give him $10, hug A and M, who are leaving, shake Gary’s hand. I want to be home immediately. The next 48 hours of travel facing us feel endless. I remind myself that the time will pass. In the background I worry whether we’ll crash in the puddlejumper we’re going to fly to San Jose. So much I want to be gone—Maxine too—and not face another night under the netting. At 8 we leave off the lights inside our room and read on the porch. I get antsy, feel at the end of my tether, do puzzles, read. I keep wanting to go too bed, but it’s too early. In bed at 9:45. I read, am unable to sleep for a long time while my mind races, then sleep fitfully, get up once to pee, have troubled dreams. I am up for good around 5:30. Feb 17, Friday Time permitting, we will leave our lodge early in the
morning for a short excursion into the city of San Jose for souvenirs and a
taste of city culture. Then we’ll say our goodbyes and depart for home. Why am I so troubled about my physical limitations? Why do I keep feeling inadequate? My therapist would ask: “What is that about?” I think of Dad trying so hard in so many things to be a success and not making it; I feel unusual compassion for him. Later I think about my summer misery in the chicken coops. I’m a library person, not a lodge person. I’m fine with the outdoors when it’s easy. I’m fine with all-inclusive resorts where I don’t have to think about what things are costing, when I don’t have to make much effort to plan my time. Galapagos hikes didn’t bother me, maybe because I found them more fascinating, but they also weren’t arduous, especially because the weather wasn’t oppressive. Packing in the morning feels good. Breakfast is pleasant. I chat there with a Pennsylvania couple, Steve and Barbara. (Why do traveling Americans inevitably first ask, “Where are you from?”) He’s a pathologist, seems to have political attitudes similar to mine. He works at a hospital in Flemington. We drive with a couple of others to Santo Jimenez. Dust, dust, dust. On arrival, our driver demands payment, although we have already made it at Luna. [A post-trip e-mail exchange on this matter is at the end of the diary.] We linger at the airport, hot and sunny, awaiting our flight to San Jose. It is reminiscent of landing areas in East Africa. On the plane, waiting to take off, it is sweltering. The slightly bumpy flight to San Jose takes 40 minutes (versus maybe a 10-hour bus ride). We take a cab back to the Canal Grande, where the weather is beautiful. We have a pleasant lunch and dinner at the same nearby Italian restaurant; one of these meals includes an enjoyable timewith B and S. We pack and go to bed. I have a difficult sleep and during wakeful periods obsess. Feb 17, Friday Time permitting, we will leave our lodge early in the
morning for a short excursion into the city of San Jose for souvenirs and a
taste of city culture. Then we’ll say our goodbyes and depart for home. Why am I so troubled about my physical limitations? Why do I keep feeling inadequate? My therapist would ask: “What is that about?” I think of Dad trying so hard in so many things to be a success and not making it; I feel unusual compassion for him. Later I think about my summer misery in the chicken coops. I’m a library person, not a lodge person. I’m fine with the outdoors when it’s easy. I’m fine with all-inclusive resorts where I don’t have to think about what things are costing, when I don’t have to make much effort to plan my time. Galapagos hikes didn’t bother me, maybe because I found them more fascinating, but also weren’t arduous, especially because the weather wasn’t oppressive. Packing in the morning feels good. Breakfast is pleasant. I chat there with a Pennsylvania couple, Steve and Barbara. (Why do traveling Americans inevitably first ask, “Where are you from?”) He’s a pathologist, seems to have political attitudes similar to mine. He works at a hospital in Flemington. We drive with a couple of others to Santo Jimenez. Dust, dust, dust. On arrival, our driver demands payment, although we have already made it at Luna. [A post-trip e-mail exchange on this matter is at the end of the diary.] We linger at the airport, hot and sunny, awaiting our flight to San Jose. It is reminiscent of landing areas in East Africa. On the plane, waiting to take off, it is sweltering. The slightly bumpy flight to San Jose takes 40 minutes (versus maybe a 10-hour bus ride). We take a cab back to the Canal Grande, where the weather is beautiful. We have a pleasant lunch and dinner at the same nearby Italian restaurant; one of these meals includes an enjoyable time with B and S. We pack and go to bed. I have a difficult sleep and during wakeful periods obsess. Up about 5:30, leave for the airport at 6:30. Run into B and S there. $52 departure tax. We’re tipped out, haven’t enough tip for the porter. Wander around the airport while waiting to board, run into B and S. Flight leaves on time, lasts 5 hours. I read magazines the whole time. At Newark clearing customs is efficient. Cab ride to NYC apartment is $80. We arrive at 4:30. I stink and take a shower. I feel disoriented; watch TV, go to sleep at 9:15, up at 3:30 am, pee, stay awake an hour and half, get total sleep of 5-7 hours. Feb 19, Sunday Up at 5:30 am. We pack the yellow duffel bag and catch a 9:17 New Haven train at 125th St. Home in Madison around noon. Our cleaning lady has painted without authorization; she thinks we’ll love it, but we don’t and will have to talk to her. I do a lot of obsessing about Josh, the painting. I think: I’m much more upset with myself about my physical weaknesses on this trip than I’ve admitted to anyone, including myself. Some trouble getting to sleep. ADDENDUM Over the next couple of weeks, I had the following e-mail exchange with Josh, copying others in the group who were affected by the events described. Me to Josh: You may already have heard about this from B and/or S. Our original trip payment to you included a road trip from Luna back to Porto Jimenez to meet the bus for the return ride to San Jose. Under normal circumstances, we all understood that anyone who decided to stay an extra night at Luna would have to pay separately ($70) for that trip at a later time. Of course, when you knew we were ALL spending an extra night at Luna, you canceled the original Thursday Luna-to-PJ drive. You probably know that A, M and G got back to PJ via the puddlejumper from Luna. Hence, B, S, Maxine and I took the road trip on Friday morning in place of the originally scheduled Thurs. trip. (We had moved our Friday departure time up and paid a $10 airline fee for the change.) Of course, we assumed that when you called Luna from our bus before you left us and arranged our extra Luna time + the PJ-San Jose flight, you had also shifted Thursday's original $70 trip to Fri. However, when our driver got to the PJ airport on Friday morning, he asked for $100 payment. We were very confused. To make sure he didn't somehow get stiffed (on the possibility that you hadn't yet arranged for his payment), after insisting that we were told the trip should cost $70 (which we later re-confirmed with Luna's owner), we agreed to pay him the $70 and get reimbursed by you after we returned home. So... We need you to
sort out whatever really happened between you and the driver, and in the
meantime reimburse Maxine and me $35, Sephanie and Barbara $17.50 each. Josh to me: Hi Richard, I apologize for the confusion. Normally when people purchase services that are above and beyond what is provided, there isn’t a situation like this where a part of the services are transferred, or even could be transferred. This was quite a unique situation, and I appreciate your perspective on the matter. Since you owe $90 that Koky paid for the additional tour you took at Luna, I see no harm in discounting you the $35 and having you deduct it from the $90. You can send the check to…: I am happy to reimburse B and S the $17.50. Warmly, Josh Me to Josh: At Luna, Koky informed us that because the all-day hike was
inappropriate for Maxine and me, we should take an alternative outing with no
extra cost to us; the only alternative that seemed suitable was the kayak trip
on the lagoon (which we wanted to do for only half the allotted time), and he
told us (with Lana [a Luna empee] standing there) that we could choose that if
we wanted. We then made arrangements
with Lana to do so--and indeed (as you know) she did not put the trip on our
bill. Please don't drag this out further. Please just send us the $35. Thank you. Me to Josh after receiving e-mail
from B and S: Maxine and I are informed that you have now reimbursed B and S. We, however, have heard nothing from you since my last e-mail reminding you that you authorized the kayak outing at Luna at no cost to us, and we still have not received our $35. We know you would not withhold the $35 because after the fact you decided you shouldn't have authorized the kayak trip, so please pay us promptly (and let us know when the check is going out). Thank you. Josh to me: Hi Richard, The check was mailed to you. You should have it soon. Warmly, Josh And the check did arrive unto our door… | |